Marquise Shape Diamonds: History, Cut, and Why They’re Trending in 2026

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Marquise Shape Diamonds: History, Cut, and Why They’re Trending in 2026

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The marquise cut diamond is one of the most dramatic and flattering shapes in the gemstone world. With its elongated silhouette and pointed ends, it evokes the glamour of French royalty and the Art Deco era. Today, this "boat-shaped" diamond is experiencing a significant resurgence.

According to recent market analysis, demand for marquise diamonds has increased by 15–20% over the last few years, as modern buyers seek unique silhouettes that maximize sparkle and offer better value than traditional rounds.

At CaratX, we connect buyers and sellers with the finest natural diamonds and gemstones. Whether you are looking to shop natural diamonds or register as a seller, understanding the nuances of the marquise shape is essential to making a smart purchase.

The Rich History of the Marquise Cut -

To understand the marquise diamond, we must travel back to 18th-century France. Legend has it that King Louis XV commissioned a jeweler to create a diamond that mimicked the shape of the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. The result was a cut that resembled a smiling mouth, but also a boat's hull or an elongated oval. This historical origin adds a layer of romance and provenance that few other cuts can claim.

The cut gained prominence during the Art Deco movement of the 1920s, where its sharp lines and symmetry fit perfectly with the geometric aesthetics of the era. Today, it remains a favorite for those wanting a vintage yet modern look.

For more on the evolution of diamond cuts, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) offers extensive research on diamond history, which you can explore here.

The Optical Illusion:

One of the most compelling reasons to choose a marquise cut is the "spread factor." Because of its elongated shape, a marquise diamond face-up appears larger than a round brilliant of the same carat weight.

Perceived Size: A well-cut 1.00 ct. marquise can appear up to 15% larger than a 1.00 ct. round brilliant.

Cost Efficiency: Regarding cost, marquise diamonds are generally 10–25% less expensive than their round counterparts. This is because round cuts waste more of the rough diamond during the cutting process, whereas the elongated shape of the marquise utilizes more of the original crystal.

If you are looking to maximize your budget and get a "wow" factor, the marquise is an excellent choice. You can browse our current inventory of certified marquise diamonds on our marketplace.

Cut Quality and Proportions -

Cut quality is the most critical factor in determining a marquise diamond's beauty. Unlike rounds, which have a standardized cut grade, fancy shapes like the marquise require a keener eye.

The Length-to-Width Ratio

The length-to-width ratio dictates the shape's silhouette.

Classic & Balanced: A ratio between 1.75 and 2.25 is considered the sweet spot. This offers a traditional marquise shape that is neither too stubby nor too needle-like.

Elongated: Ratios above 2.25 create a very long, slender finger that can be very elegant but may be structurally riskier due to the longer points.

The Bow-Tie Effect

A common phenomenon in elongated cuts is the bow-tie effect a dark, shadowy area that appears across the center of the diamond. This occurs when light leaks out of the pavilion instead of reflecting back to the eye. While almost all marquise diamonds exhibit some bow-tie, a well-cut stone will have a soft, subtle effect that doesn't detract from the brilliance.

For a deep dive into light performance and optical geometry, academic resources from institutions like the California Institute of Technology (Caltech) discuss light physics in relation to faceted gems here.

Color and Clarity Considerations

Due to its unique shape, the marquise diamond interacts with light differently than a round. Here is how to navigate the 4Cs for this specific cut:

Color Grade

Because the marquise has a large, open table and pointed ends, it acts like a prism. Color concentration can be more visible, particularly at the tips. To ensure a bright, icy-white look:

Recommendation: Aim for a color grade in the D-H range.

The Setting Effect: If you set a slightly lower color grade (I-J) in yellow gold, the metal's warmth can mask any slight tint in the diamond.

Clarity Grade

The long, pointed tips are vulnerable areas for inclusions. A tiny feather or crystal at the tip can be visible to the naked eye or even pose a durability risk.

Recommendation: Look for a clarity grade of VS1, VS2, or a very clean SI1. Inclusions should be placed away from the points, ideally under the bezel or prongs where they can be hidden.

You can filter our natural diamonds by clarity to find the perfect eye-clean stone for your project.

Setting and Protecting Your Marquise

The pointed ends of a marquise diamond are delicate and prone to chipping if not properly protected. When designing your ring, the setting is not just aesthetic; it is structural.

V-Prongs: The industry standard for protecting the tips is the use of V-shaped prongs. These wrap around the point, shielding it from knocks.

Bezel Settings: A full or partial bezel encircles the entire diamond, offering the highest level of protection. This setting is ideal for those with active lifestyles.

Hidden Halos: A popular trend involves setting a halo of smaller diamonds around the marquise, which not only adds sparkle but also provides a protective barrier for the edges.

For jewelry designers and retailers looking to source protected, high-quality stones for intricate settings, consider our seller plan to access our B2B inventory.

Why Marquise Diamonds Are Trending Now

The spike in demand for marquise cuts can be attributed to several factors:

Celebrity Influence: High-profile engagements featuring marquise diamonds (like those of Catherine Zeta-Jones and Heidi Klum) have reintroduced the shape to a new generation.

Vintage Revival: Fashion is cyclical, and the current love affair with 90s and Y2K aesthetics has brought the marquise back into the spotlight.

Flattering Effect: The elongated shape creates an illusion of longer, slimmer fingers, a selling point that retailers can leverage with clients.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. Is a marquise diamond more expensive than a round? No. Marquise diamonds are typically 10–25% less expensive than round brilliants of the same carat weight and quality because the cutting process retains more of the rough crystal, resulting in less waste.

2. Do marquise diamonds sparkle less than rounds? Round brilliants have the most fire and brilliance due to their ideal light refraction. However, a well-cut marquise with excellent symmetry and polish will still offer exceptional sparkle and a unique flash pattern.

3. How can I avoid a prominent bow-tie in my marquise diamond? The best way is to view high-resolution videos of the specific diamond you intend to buy. Look for a stone where the dark area across the center is minimal and doesn't obscure the brilliance. Reputable vendors like those on CaratX provide detailed imagery.

4. Are marquise diamonds suitable for everyday wear? Yes, provided they are set securely. Because of the pointed tips, it is crucial to choose a setting with V-prongs or a bezel to protect the diamond from chips during daily activities.

Ready to Find Your Perfect Marquise?

Whether you are a consumer looking for an engagement ring that stands out, or a business looking to capitalize on the rising demand for marquise diamonds, CaratX is your global partner.

Shop the Collection: View our curated selection of certified marquise diamonds here - https://caratx.com/search-results/Pear

Sell Internationally: Join our marketplace to reach B2B and B2C buyers in 18+ countries. Register as a Seller - www.caratx.com/register

Explore Pricing: Learn about our competitive plans for launching your products - https://caratx.com/generic-pages/launch-your-products-on-caratx

Follow CaratX for more insightful and educational content.

Image Credit - # GIA

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